I have had the honour of climbing the Ortler over 200 times with guests on various routes. Changing conditions, different weather conditions and the altitude, which should not be underestimated, make climbing the Ortler a very special experience.
Climb the highest mountain in South Tyrol together with me via the normal route from the Payerhütte. The time to climb the Ortler via the normal route from the Payerhütte is from mid-June to the end of September.
The best time to climb the Ortler is usually mid-June to the end of July and September.
Schedule:
We meet the day before at the Payerhütte by 5.30pm at the latest. It is best to use the Langenstein car park (outward and return) and take paths 4A and 4 or walk directly via the 4er Weg to the Tabarettahütte (1.50 to 2 hours). From there it is about 1.50 hours to the Payerhütte.
We will book the hut for you.
Over dinner together, we discuss the itinerary for the tour and prepare our equipment. Depending on the breakfast time set by the hut, we then have breakfast together at half past four or five in the morning. The start is half an hour later. After an ascent of 3-4 hours, we will reach the summit of the Ortler and arrive back at the Payerhütte around midday. The descent from the Payerhütte to Sulden takes about 2.5 hours.
Route description Ortler Normalweg |
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| The normal route up the Ortler can be divided into two main sections. The first third of the route is on rock, the rest on snow and ice. We start roped up from the Payerhütte. Initially, the path leads smoothly westwards into a small saddle, which is climbed down approximately two metres. Then we progress southwards via another climb to a first climbing passage (descending). From there, walking passages alternate with easy climbing passages, often in short sections downwards (max. 2 UIAA) to the so-called "Wandl". There is a chain there (via ferrata) and is therefore easy to manage. From there we continue via a ridge to the key point in the rock, the so-called "Weiberschreck" (3+ UIAA), a small upswing that can be climbed easily if you follow the instructions and position your feet correctly. Another ridge then leads to a traverse (to the west), where another short via ferrata finally takes us onto the glacier. Here, we normally put on our crampons and after a short break, in good conditions always on snow or ice, we follow steep serpentines and short upswings to the Ortler Bivouac 3316m, which we bypass on the left. After another break we proceed over the "Stickl" (steep ascent) to the flat Ortlerferner and easily reach the summit. Descent as ascent. |
